Restore & Repair
Repairing white rings or water stains
One of my relatives placed a hot cup of tea on our wood dining room table and it left a huge white ring? How do I remove the ring from the table?
白戒指是通过饰面吸收的水分。当你出现白圈时，这是一个迹象，即完成正在磨损并失去其淹没水分的能力。从这杯茶中的热量软化了完成并允许水分进入顶层饰面。在这种情况下，由于它是一个新的白环，有时您可以使用低/温暖的设定吹风机成功，以蒸发湿气。但是，如果你有一块带有白色环的家具，那么在一段时间内一直在那里，我们需要一点点磨蚀以取出它。我经常获得4-0钢羊毛的垫 - 最好的钢丝羊毛。钢丝羊毛本身将留下划痕，所以我先倒入白戒指一个整理产品，通常Minwax®古色古香的油orMinwax® Wipe-On Poly, and then use the 4-0 steel wool on top of the oil to lightly abrade the surface. Take a rag, wipe it off, check it, and gradually you'll see that white ring disappearing. Then take Minwax® Wipe-On Poly or Minwax® Antique Oil and go over the entire surface of the table, because that white ring indicates the finish is worn out. It needs another coat of finish to prevent that from happening again.
Repairing a surface scratch
先假设我们不希望to refinish the table; we just want to make that scratch disappear. The solution is going to depend on how deep it is. If it's just a shallow scratch, something that just removed a little bit of the finish but hasn't removed any wood, then my recommendation would be theMinwax® Wood Finish™ Stain Markers。These are little miniature felt pens with miniature cans of wood stain inside them and they come in the 8 most popular Minwax® colors. You can generally find a stain marker that's going to match the color of the table. Then using the felt tip on the stain marker you can very carefully fill in the missing color. If you get a little bit on the outside where you don't want it, just take a rag and wipe it off.
If the scratch has penetrated into the wood, then we need to actually put some substance in there and since we're not going to refinish the table, I would recommendMinwax®木材腻子。It comes in 10 different colors. You just take the end of your finger, pick the color that's going to match the closest, rub it into the scratch, take a rag and wipe off the excess. This will level it out with the rest of the table.
Recognizing authenticity of antique furniture
I have some old furniture that looks Mission to me. How can I tell if it really is of that style and period, or if it's just a modernist knock off?
Just about anybody with enough practice can go out and create an Arts and Crafts/Mission Oak color. Minwax® has made that even easier now. Recognizing the popularity of Arts and Crafts, they have added three more colors - American Chestnut, Mission Oak, and Classic Black - to theirPolyShades®line. Getting the look of an Arts and Crafts piece is much easier now than it ever was before.
Knowing whether or not the piece is authentic isn't going to come from looking at the color - it's going to be looking at the construction. Turn it upside down and look for tell-tale clues. "Phillips" head screws, for instance, would not be found on an authentic piece of Arts and Crafts furniture. "Philips" head screws weren't introduced until the late 1920's and your good Arts and Crafts furniture was made before then. Look for signs of fresh glue, new construction, anything underneath it or on the back of it for some indication of when that piece was made.
I recently did some ironing on a towel placed over an oak dresser. The finish still looks okay, but I can really feel the grain. How can I repair the texture?
It obviously was an old finish that was affected by the heat. In this case, the combination of the heat going through that towel and probably the texture of the towel got embedded into the surface as well. It's an unfortunate thing, but it certainly is not going to make you have to refinish the piece. It sounds like in this case the finish is still intact. It probably softened for a few minutes, and then once the towel and the iron were removed, it rehardened.
所以我所做的就是用尖头的尖端拿220个砂纸，非常轻松地拿走了一些220张砂纸，砂饰面。请注意，你只想打磨完成 - 不是木头。不要穿过完成！220砂纸只是将粗糙度的粗糙度从顶层完成。跑到你的指尖，当它很好，漂亮，拿一块布，擦掉所有的灰尘，然后再涂上一层涂层。在一个古董的情况下，我们已经完成了一些完成，但我们希望建立一些完成，我建议使用Minwax®古色古香的油or theMinwax® Tung Oil。They both give you more of an antique effect, and yet will give you good protection.
Revitalizing older furniture without refinishing
What is the best approach for older furniture that does not need to be fully refinished, but needs the finish refreshed (removing gunk and dirt, minimizing the scratches, etc) while retaining the character of the original finish?
The first thing you want to do is make sure, like that old physician's adage, first do no harm. You don't want to use a harsh cleaner. Don't suddenly just grab ammonia, or any sort of cleaner, TSP, even mineral spirits. I would not use any of those because old finishes can be rather fragile, and you might find that instead of cleaning it you're actually stripping it. That's going to make a bigger job for you, and the piece is worth less when you're done with it than if you'd left that old finish intact. So the first thing I would do would be to just give it a very careful cleaning. Make sure you're using a product likeMinwax® Wood Cabinet Cleaner——这是一个方便的触发喷雾。使用我们的od cleaner that is specifically designed for wood, not something that you would typically use to clean your floors, like ammonia. Just use Minwax® Wood Cleaner and a soft rag, clean off the gunk, and work on small sections at a time. This is not something you do when you're in a big hurry.
Once you get it clean, the original finish, whether it's shellac or an early form of lacquer, needs some protection. If the piece has a lot of scratches on it, you can go back and useMinwax® Wood Finish™ Stain Markersto touch up your scratches. If you like the look of the scratches and consider that part of the character of the piece, then don't worry about them because you're still going to put one more coat of finish on there, and you can go in one of two directions depending on your personal preference.
When preserving an antique finish, I recommend usingMinwax® Paste Finishing Wax。You can apply it with a rag, rub it on the wood, let it dry but not completely harden, and then buff it off. That thin coat of paste wax will seal the original finish, but it won't change the appearance of it dramatically.
您拥有的其他选项，如果您喜欢在油上擦拭油而不是擦掉粘贴蜡，您可以使用Minwax® Tung OilorMinwax®古色古香的油。Any of those would be acceptable and preferable to sanding it, refinishing it, or even putting a coat of Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane on it. I would not do it. In a case like this, it's going to be wax, tung oil, or antique oil, after that careful cleaning.
I would like to refinish a Rosewood veneer end table. Should I strip the existing finish and should I apply a sealer before I finish with an antique oil finish?
Okay, so we've got Rosewood and we've got veneer. By veneer meaning that we've got a sheet of Rosewood that may only be a 16th, maybe even a 32nd of an inch thick. That means that we have to rule out any sort of abrasive sanding, and it also means we rule out any sort of a stripper or remover that may require water as a rinse. Water can seep underneath the veneer and soften the glue to the point where the veneer actually starts to loosen at the ends, or it can seep right into the middle where there might be a joint between two pieces of veneer. With any sort of paint and poly remover, do not use water as the final rinse. I always useFormby's® Paint and Poly Remover or the Formby's® Paint and Poly Remover Wash, which does not contain water. That way you're not introducing water into the equation. So for getting the old finish off, it means no stripper that requires water as a rinse and no heavy sanding because you don't want to sand through that very thin sheet of veneer.
As far as the final finish goes, a sanding sealer is optional. If I was usingMinwax®古色古香的油, I would probably not use the sanding sealer. Instead, once I got the wood completely stripped and lightly sanded so it was all nice and smooth, I would probably start by applying the first of maybe 3 or 4 coats of Minwax® Antique Oil to give it a great hand-rubbed effect. And with the rosewood having a lot of oil content of its own. You may find that 2 or 3 coats are all that it needs to saturate all of the pores with the oil. What I would do is go back every six months or so, anytime it starts to look a little bit dry and worn, get out a can of Minwax® Antique Oil and spread another coat on it.
Proper treatment of unfinished pine
Should a sanding sealer always be used prior to staining unfinished Pine?
不必要。砂光封口机是一层专门设计用于非常迅速干燥的涂层和砂。你看到打磨的封口机使用了最多的地板，因为承包商或DO-IT-yselfer可以放下一层砂光封口机，它会迅速干燥，比你刚刚戴上第一层Minwax® Fast-Drying PolyurethaneorMinwax®地板的聚氨酯。In other words, when time is of the essence, a sanding sealer comes in handy. However, if you don't want to use a sanding sealer, it's perfectly acceptable not to. You would apply your first coat of finish directly to the wood. Instead of drying in just a matter of a few hours, typically you will have to let it dry over night, come back the next day, sand it lightly and put on your second coat of finish. So it's all a matter of time versus investment in the can of sanding sealer.
Can you create specialty stain wood filler that will match an odd color material?
Getting a wood filler that will accept the stain either wet or dry has always been a challenge. You want a material that is going to dry extremely hard, yet at the same time after it's dry, you want it to accept the stain. I useMinwax® Stainable Wood Fillerbecause I found that it comes the closest and gives me the best opportunity to match it up. After it's dry, Minwax Stainable Wood Filler has the color of natural wood with a yellowish tone. It will accept a stain more readily than any of the other synthetic fillers I've ever worked with.
这并不意味着你不必做一些实验。我一直在我的商店留在我的商店之一是那些廉价的艺术家画笔。虽然不稳定的木材填充物接受污渍，但它可能并不总是接受与立即围绕它的木材的毛孔相同。所以用一点点染色，让它留在那里，让它坐在填料上5或6分钟浸泡在深处，用棉签的末端擦拭，然后检查你的颜色。如果它不太正确，您可以随时添加更多颜色。这是Minwax®油的污渍的伟大措施 - 他们为您提供与他们一起使用的能力，无论您是否在表面的顶部将它们混合在一起，甚至在申请之前都会更好我曾经搞过的任何自制补救措施。
Filling gaps in miter joints
I'm an amateur woodworker and have recently started making my own picture frames. Unfortunately, some of my early attempts left unsightly gaps in my miter joints. The frames are nailed and glued, so I can't take them apart and recut them. Any suggestions for filling the gaps?
Don't feel badly, for I've seen gaps on frames made by professional woodworkers--and me. The difference is that the professionals know how to disguise the gaps in their miter joints. I prefer to useMinwax® Stainable Wood Fillerrather than the old sawdust-and-glue mixture, simply because the Stainable Wood Filler dries quickly, is easy to sand and accepts a stain better than anything else I have tried. To help the patch blend into the surrounding wood, be careful not to overspread the filler.
Removing white paint
We are struggling to get the last of a coat of white paint out of the pores of the fancy turned legs on an English Tudor style table we want to use in our dining room. The stripper removed most of the paint, but now we are trying to sand off the rest. The problem is the paint is deep in the pores of the wood. Should we keep sanding or strip it again?
Strip it again! This time follow these tips: First, use a high- quality stripper, such asFormby's® Paint and Poly Remover。Second, apply a heavy coat of Paint and Poly Remover, then cover it with wax paper to slow the evaporation of the remover. Finally, after the Paint and Poly Remover has had enough time to soften the last of the paint, use a small brass bristle brush (not the stiff standard wire brush!) to dislodge the softened paint from the pores. You can find brass bristle brushes, which won't scratch the wood, near the outdoor grills in your local hardware store.
Achieving an even stain color on maple
I recently made a coffee table using maple, but I've heard so many horror stories associated with the staining of that wood. I was wondering if you could give me any pointers?
Maple, whether it's hard maple, soft maple, or birds eye maple, is a great wood, but all maple has one characteristic in common: it absorbs stain unevenly. My first recommendation is, if you don't have to stain maple, let it go natural. It's a beautiful wood. Just put either a couple of coats ofMinwax® Wipe-On Poly, or brush onMinwax® Fast-Drying PolyorMinwax® Polycrylic。It looks great with just a clear finish over it.
If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats ofMinwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner。This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.
最后，不要试图让枫树看起来像核桃或其他一些较暗的木头。如果你想要核桃书柜或核桃咖啡桌，买核桃。如果您要染色枫树，请将其涂在其中一个打火机颜色 - Minwax®Gondpecan或Minwax®Gondgoak。较浅的颜色不会倾向于表现出斑点。
Do you have any tips on matching old, maybe 100 year old stained wood with new stained wood? Is it just trial and error until you get it color matched?
Yes, it is just trial and error. One of the things I recommend if you're doing much matching is to buy several of the smallest sized cans of stains you can find. One of the great things aboutMinwax® Wood Finish™oil-based stains is that it is available in 26 colors. The wonderful thing is that you can mix them together to create a number of different colors. Start with your color chart. Try to find one that comes as close as possible and apply it to your wood. Compare it to the old finish, decide if it needs a little bit more red or a little bit more brown, etc., then apply more stain.
You can mix stain together in more than one way. One way is to apply one stain, let it dry, and then apply another stain on top of that. The problem is that on a tight grain wood, after two or three layers of stain, the wood isn't going to have much room to absorb any more stain. What I generally prefer to do is to mix my stains together in liquid form. Remember to keep track of how much of each stain you're putting in by using plastic measuring spoons and cups. Once you hit upon the color you like, write the formula down and give it a name, so you can go back and duplicate it whenever you want.
一个配色技巧:记住那t the top coat is going to add a little bit of color as well, especially an oil-based one. To get a true color match, it's not just a matter of looking at it when you've got your stain on there. You have to let your stain dry, take an aerosol can, mist a little bit of finish over it, and compare that to the piece you're matching - because that final little bit of finish you're putting on is going to affect the color as well.
Choosing between gel stain and liquid stain
Can you explain the difference between a gel stain and a liquid stain and the best options for using each?
Let's start with their similarities. Both are oil-based stains, which means they contain mineral spirits and clean up with mineral spirits.Minwax® Wood Finish™穿透污渍，有26种颜色，往往深入渗透到木材中。Minwax® Gel Stains, available in 10 different colors, are formulated a little bit differently. There is actually a gelatin appearance to them and when you first open up the lid of the can, it's a little bit shocking to see this gelatin jiggling around in there. Stirring is essential with all stains - oil, water, gel, regular - because the pigments tend to settle to the bottom of the can while sitting on the shelf. So stir it up very well, and the gelatin will become a little bit more liquid in form, but it will still maintain that gel-like consistency.
Removing stain from skin
While finishing cabinets with water-based stains and poly, I got some on my arm without realizing it. What is the best way to remove it once it dries?
我有这种情况 - 我一只手上有手套，但另一方面我没有手套，并肯定这是所有污点最终的地方。我刚进来，给了一个用肥皂和水擦洗。需要几秒钟 - 它并没有瞬间用温水和肥皂磨擦。喷出一点液体手肥皂，它会软化染色，刚刚从皮肤上脱颖而出。我确实告诉人们即使我们考虑基于水的烟雾，容易清理，戴手套还是一个好主意。这些污渍被设计为被吸收，污点不知道试图吸收到您的皮肤上的差异，试图吸收到您的项目中，因此佩戴手套是一个好主意，但这不是一个主要问题。它会很容易洗掉。
Stain seeping out of the wood
The last time I stained a piece of unfinished oak furniture I had a problem with stain seeping back out of the wood. I applied the stain as directed, let it soak into the wood for about four minutes, then wiped off the excess stain. I came back the next day to apply a polyurethane finish and I was surprised to find several spots of stain all over the wood. It looked like chicken pox. I was able to scrub them off with mineral spirits, but don't want to go through it again. Any solution?
What you're describing is "bleed-back." It is not uncommon with open-pored woods, such as oak, ash and mahogany, especially on vertical surfaces. The larger pores in these woods act as containers for the stain, which collects in the pores, but does not dry. Instead, it gradually seeps out of the pores, leaving the spots you so aptly described. The solution is simple: After you have wiped off the excess stain, take a clean bristle brush and lightly brush the tips of the bristles over the wood. As you will see, the bristle tips will pull the extra stain out of these deep pores. You can then remove the last of the excess stain with a clean cloth.
Glue vs. stain on kit furniture
Excellent point! Stains do seal the pores of the wood - and glue depends on open pores to work effectively. For that reason I always wrap masking tape around the ends of spindles, legs and any parts which I will later glue to keep the stain off. For the same reason, I also stuff the holes that will receive these parts with small pieces of paper towel to keep the stain out. Then, when I'm ready to assemble the piece, I pull off the masking tape and paper towel. These critical areas are then clean, unsealed and ready to accept the glue.
Avoiding bubbles in top coats
I sometimes get bubbles in my finish. What am I doing wrong?
There are three sources of the air bubbles. The first one can be in your brush. If you're using a foam brush to put on a finish, you are actually putting air into the finish, so eliminate foam brushes from your list of tools for applying a finish. Foam brushes are great for applying a stain, but you need to go to a bristle brush for applying a finish.
If you do have to stain it, I would strongly recommend two coats of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. This is going to help even out the absorption of the stain. Apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner and let it soak in for 5 to 15 minutes (usually 15 minutes), removing any excess. Apply second coat accordingly.
最后，不要试图让枫树看起来像核桃或其他一些较暗的木头。如果你想要核桃书柜或核桃咖啡桌，买核桃。If you are going to stain maple, stain it with one of the lighter colors - Minwax® Wood Finish Golden Pecan or Minwax® Wood Finish Golden Oak. Lighter colors won't tend to show the blotchiness as much.
Protecting interior window trim from weather conditions
无论是威斯康星州还是佛罗里达州，水分，风和阳光都会加起来加起来占据了很多虐待的窗台。我们正在谈论内部窗台。如果你推出标准Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane,阳光穿过g的结合lass, UV rays, and occasional moisture is going to wear out the polyurethane on the windowsills faster than on the rest of the interior of the house. So when it comes to windowsills, I generally switch from the standard Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane to another Minwax® product calledHelmsman® Spar Urethane。Helmsman® is an interior or exterior spar urethane, which means it's got more resistance to UV and moisture, and it's a great finish to put on a windowsill because there is no difference in appearance between it and the rest of the boards you've done in the regular polyurethane.
Recommended finishes for cherry wood
What is your preferred method for finishing cherry wood, particularly on a child's table?
Cherry is one of my favorite woods. It actually falls into the same category as maple in that cherry doesn't absorb a stain very well. Unlike maple, cherry's got a beautiful reddish color to it that actually turns more toward brown as it ages. More often than not, people don't stain cherry - they just allow the natural color to come through. My favorite finish for cherry is a hand-rubbed finish. In this case, since the table is going to be used by a child, I recommend theMinwax® Wipe-On Poly。You get that hand rubbed effect and the polyurethane that is added by the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly gives it more durability than your other rub-on oils, such as tung oil or antique oil. Both of them are great oils, but since this is going to receive some extra hard use, I would go with the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly. It gives you the hand rubbed look, yet you get the same durability and protection as you would with polyurethanes.
Water-based vs. oil-based polyurethane
Do you have any preferences on water-based versus the traditional oil-based clear protective finishes?
这不是一个选择一个或其他的问题using only that one, because that limits you. You should pick whether you're going to use oil-based or water-based with other criteria in mind than just whether you think you're an oil-based person or a water-based person. For instance, if you're working inside and you can't ventilate very well (during winter time, for example), then the water-based has the advantage that you don't have to ventilate. When you're working on large surfaces though, and you need a good long working time, I prefer the oil-based finishes because the stains don't set up as quickly. You get about 15 minutes of working time with the oil-based stains before you have to wipe them off compared to 1 to 3 minutes with the water-based stains. So in addition to whether or not you can ventilate, the size of your project is going to have some determination on which one you choose.
Color also becomes a factor. If you would like to use one of theMinwax®水基木染色colors, then I would go with a water-based clear protective finish such asMinwax® Polycrylic™ Protective Finish，在它的顶部。因此，让您的项目和您的情况有助于您确定您是否会使用基于水的或基于油的，并且不要限制在每个项目中使用一个或另一个。
Wipe-on vs. brush-on polyurethane
What is your take on the differences between wipe-on versus brush-on polyurethane?
Well, it's like having two brothers in the same family. They're both going to give you good protection but the application is completely different. Let's start with the more traditional brush on. Typically with a brush onMinwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane, most of your projects, whether it be furniture, unfinished furniture, or cabinets, will require applying two coats of finish, because you are laying on a thicker coat than you would if you were just rubbing it on. I like to give each coat overnight to dry. One of the worst mistakes you can make with finishing is to put a second coat on before the first coat has totally dried. The finish depends on air and there is some evaporation that goes on, so if you put a second coat on top of the first coat that is not completely dry, you're shutting off the air and that first coat won't ever completely harden. So you always want to make sure that your first coat is completely dry before you put a second coat on there.
与之Minwax® Wipe-On Poly, you're putting it on with a rag. You're putting on a thinner coat, but you can generally go back in about two to three hours for your second coat, two to three more hours for your third coat, etc. To get the ultimate protection with the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly, I generally use 4 or 5 coats, but I can do those all in one day. Whereas with the brush on, it's going to take two days, even though you're only putting on two coats.
It really comes down to a matter of personal preference, because when you're all done, you're still going to have good polyurethane protection. The wipe on is going to give you more of a hand rubbed look, while the brush on is going to give you a slightly heavier coating, it's going to build more on top of the surface. When it comes down to durability, the two coats of brush on are going to be a little bit stronger and a little bit more durable than the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly. So if it's something that's going to receive a lot of use and abuse, I'll go for the brush on polyurethane. If it's something I want to give more of a hand rubbed look, and it's not going to take a lot of abuse, then I'm going to have to reach for the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly.
What finish do you recommend for Purple Heart?
紫心脏有很多异性树木的共同特征：它具有高天然油含量。柚木是另一种木材，我们可能更熟悉它有很多自己的天然油。你会知道它通过与之合作：当你切割或打磨它时，它会有更油腻的外观。多年来我学到的东西是你可以添加到油的最好的东西，是更多的石油。所以我倾向于使用3个Minwax®擦拭油中的一种：Minwax® Tung Oil,Minwax®古色古香的油, or theMinwax® Wipe-On Poly。
There isn't a significant difference in appearance between the three. Minwax® Antique Oil will always give you a more satin effect, so if I'm working with an antique or something that I want to look older, I'll often use the antique oil. The Minwax® Tung Oil offers not so much of a satin effect, and the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly gives you the ability to do a high gloss finish if that's what you're looking for, or you can go with a satin look as well with the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly. I would go with one of the three penetrating oils versus a brush on finish. One of the concerns with a wood that has a lot of natural oil is that the brush on oil is not going to be compatible with the natural oil in the wood. Or perhaps it just doesn't have enough empty pores to cling to and it might have a tendency to chip or peel off down the road. So when you're working with an oily wood, add more oil to it.
Coating a heavily used table top
What is the best finish for a heavily used table that will be exposed to food and water spills?
十次10次我会在版本上进行刷子，如Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane。I would brush on either two or three coats, the third coat depends on whether or not the second coat gives you a nice even sheen.
One of the many reasons that I like the Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane is that if 6 months or 6 years later I walk into the room and realize that the finish is starting to look a little worn, I can takeMinwax® Wipe-On Polyand apply a thin coat over the top of the original brush on poly without having to get out a brush. You just open up the can, pour it on, work it in with a soft rag, let it soak in for a few minutes and then wipe it off. Two hours later it's dry and your table looks like you refinished it but all you did was really just add another coat of polyurethane using a rag, so I would go with Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane and then keep the Minwax® Wipe-On Poly on hand for touch-ups as needed.
Avoiding and removing fish eyes in the finish
For those who are unfamiliar with this term, a fish eye got its name because it's a crater in the finish about the size of a fish eye. It's caused by having any sort of a contaminant on the wood that the finish won't stick to. I remember one time carrying a piece of furniture from my shop into the spray booth and a drip of sweat off the end of my nose dripped onto the wood. I took my sleeve and I thought I wiped it off, but obviously there was some oil in that sweat and when I sprayed lacquer on, I got this beautiful fish eye right over where that drop of oily sweat landed on the wood. So any time you have a contaminant on the wood (it can be wax or silicone from aerosol polishes), the finish will group around it, creating a crater instead of drying over the top of it, and it's called a fish eye.
The best way to prevent it? Right before you are putting on your finish (let's say you're going to use an oil base finish), take a cloth moistened with mineral spirits, the solvent for oil base, and just wipe the top down. That way if there was any sort of contaminant, the mineral spirits would take it off. If you're using lacquer, you'd want to do the same thing using lacquer thinner to wipe it down, so that anything that may have fallen on there would be removed.
当人们使用漆时，鱼眼通常会发生。漆是一个非常敏感的表面处理 - 比聚氨酯更敏感。虽然你可以，你不会经常得到钓鱼眼睛。你确实发生了什么？在完成干燥之前，你可以做任何事情。让它干，然后轻轻地拿220次砂纸和沙子 - 你不是试图把它全部洗掉。当你到达鱼眼的地方时，你必须备受一些额外的注意力并做两件事。轻轻沙子，但随后仍然用一些矿物质抹布，并非常清洁那个区域。如果污染物仍然暴露，它将被移除，所以当你放下第二件外套时，它会在它上面流动，鱼眼会消失。
Refinishing a parquet floor
parq整修表面的最简单方法是什么uet floor? I'm assuming a floor sander cannot be used because of the alternating grain pattern.
"Parquet floor" means that the boards are laid in a geometric pattern so you don't have the grain running straight down the room. You cannot use a power sander for removing the finish from a parquet floor. You literally have to treat it like a piece of furniture. Imagine the room being a large antique tabletop! I would recommend to strip off the old finish. The type of finish is going to determine what type of chemical remover you're going to use. If it's an old house and you've got an old shellac or an old varnish finish, it may be that theFormby's® Furniture Refinisher会溶解它并将其脱落，您可以使用ScotChite®PAD进行。他们持续一点点越来越长，不像钢丝那么凌乱。但是，如果是更现代化的聚氨酯表面，家具炼油机也不会通过它以及Formby's® Paint and Poly Remover。
I would recommend getting a small can of the Formby's® Furniture Refinisher first. Go over to one corner of the room or inside a closet, do a test, and see if the finish comes off easily just by putting the refinisher on a rag and rubbing a spot. If yes, then you can do it using Formby's® Furniture Refinisher.
Creating stenciled patterns
How can you stencil on a wood floor without the stain bleeding?
你要做的拳头是意识到你实际上并没有将污渍放入木材中。这是我们将打破规则的那些情况之一。如果你打算钢铁蜡纸，你想把你的第一层涂在一起Minwax®地板的聚氨酯on the bare wood, so you've actually sealed the wood.
Then I prefer to useMinwax® Gel Stain。A gel stain is an oil based stain that's heavier bodied than the typicalMinwax® Wood Finish™穿透污点，这具有更简单的倾向，因为它设计成渗透到木材中。在这种情况下，我们希望将污渍放在第一层涂层的顶部，并且我更喜欢使用Minwax®凝胶污渍颜色之一。让第一件外套干，如果您在房间周围的直线或进行几何图案进行直线或进行几何图案，请将其置于遮蔽胶带，并确保您的遮蔽胶带非常适合第一层完成。
然后我们要打破另一个规则:你是not going to use a brush. When you use a brush to apply stain next to masking tape, the bristles of the brush are trying to force the stain underneath the masking tape. To avoid that, get a sea sponge. These are big, heavy open-pored sponges, better than just a household sponge. Put a little bit of the sea sponge into the stain, then dab off most of the stain onto a paper towel before you start dabbing it onto the area that you want to stencil. Put on your stain in a thin coat because if you get too much stain, it's going to run underneath your masking tape. Let it dry, then come back and dab on a little bit more. The nice thing about it is, you can determine how dark it's going to be by how many layers of stain you're putting on.
In addition, keep in mind you still want to see the grain of the wood coming through. The idea of stenciling is generally to give the appearance of having two different species of wood in the same floor. So if you've got an oak floor and you want to make it look like you had a border in walnut, then you'd use a darker Minwax® Gel Stain to give that impression. Once your stain has dried, peel off the masking tape, then sandwich the stain in with another coat of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors. When you're all done, you're going to have one polyurethane layer on the floor, the layer of stain, and then another layer of finish, so your stencil is in a sandwich of two layers of Minwax® Polyurethane for Floors.
Restoring a wood floor covered with linoleum
Under linoleum tiles I found a hardwood floor. Unfortunately, the linoleum was stuck down with glue and now there is quite a bit of old paper from the backing stuck to the wood. I have lifted up all the old tiles. What's my next step?
你必须非常小心你的我们ing as a solvent to remove that old glue, and you do want to use a solvent of some sort here. I usually start with mineral spirits, trying that first. Sometimes lacquer thinner will work. It just depends, and there is no way of predicting which solvent is going to work, because every company that made a different adhesive will have a different solvent for it. There's no way to know what that solvent is without experimenting.
This is one of those cases where you want to use a solvent and be sure you read the precautions on the can. Most solvents require good ventilation where you can have the doors and the windows open, set up a fan and have a steady stream of air blowing through. Wear a respirator and gloves, take safety precautions because the solvents used to dissolve those old glues can be toxic. They can work very effectively but you've got to take the necessary precautions to make sure that they don't cause any problems for you.
The other alternative of course would be sanding it off, but sanding paper is going to gum up with that old residue so quickly that you will have to spend a lot of money on sanding belts before you see any progress at all. So the answer is going to be: experiment with some different solvents, find the one that works, but do make sure you are reading and following all the safety precautions on whatever can of solvent you end up using.
Recoating a cork floor
What is the best way to recoat a cork floor?
You could say cork is wood in one sense. It has the same properties, it is very porous. And cork is making a comeback now along with bamboo. The property of cork that makes it desirable for a floor is the fact that it has a little bit of sponginess to it. The cork itself though, as you know from just messing with cork, whether it's on wine or on something else, is not very durable, so it tends to wear down quickly. One place I wouldn't use it would be in an office with a chair with rollers on it, where you're rolling back and forth, because it will very quickly wear down.
Getting back to the question, you can use polyurethane with the same approach you would take to putting a finish on an oak or maple floor. I would use theMinwax®地板的聚氨酯。You might find though that instead of the typical two coats, you might be putting on 3 or even 4 coats, depending on how open and how porous the cork is. If you see dull, dead spots when you stand at one end of the room looking towards a source of light at the opposite end, that means the Cork or the wood has absorbed all the finish in that spot and it needs more finish. This rule of thumb applies to any project you're working on. Look toward the strongest source of light. When you're doing any sort of finish work, you should always be facing the strongest source of light, whether that's through a window, a door, or a spotlight you've set up. You don't want the light coming over your shoulder - you want the light facing you so you can see any spots you missed, any runs or any drips. When you get it to the point where you see an even sheen all the way across the floor, then you know that you're done. This means that the last coat of finish is laying on top of the wood rather than being soaked down into it. But with cork that might be 3 or even 4 coats, just depending on how much is going to soak in.
My kitchen floor is made of oak and needs to be refinished, but I had a bad experience years ago with one of those heavy-duty floor sanders. I ended up covering that floor with a large rug. I really want to save money by doing this myself, but am worried that I'll ruin the floor with the sander once again. Do you have any suggestions?
I agree that wrestling one of those powerful sanders around the room is not my idea of a good time. Fortunately it's not your only option. If the floor has unsightly scratches, you can use a small sander to remove both the old finish and the scratches. You can rent either a standing orbital sander or a regular hand-held belt sander, both of which are easier to handle than the powerful standing floor sanders. These alternative sanders will require some extra time, but your floor will look just as beautiful-if not better-than one sanded with a floor sander.